Leaving behind the Atlantic coastline of Northern Spain, we proceed inland for about only 15 miles to enter what may rank among the most unique biospheres of the Iberian Peninsula, the PICOS DE EUROPA National Park. We suddenly feel reminded of Switzerland, as the vegetation turns lush & green, the humidity and rain fall increase and we gently wind our way uphill into the most scenic sections of the CORDILLERA CANTABRICA, as this mountainous part of Spain is called. 

The Picos de Europa National Park is the first of its kind in Spain dating back to 1918 and was extended to include parts of Asturias and Castilla-León in 1993. It reaches peaks of up to 2600 meters (9000 feet) and in large parts offers a unique Mediterranean-Atlantic microclimate where the production of wine and ORUJO (firewater, a kind of grappa) flourishes, particularly in the scenic LIÉBANA valley. It is here that we gently meander uphill along the banks of the DEVA river to briefly straddle the border with the Kingdom of Asturias, the only region of Spain where the Moors failed to prevail. It is therefore called the Cradle of the Reconquista. 

As we proceed and reenter Cantabria, we see numerous picturesque POSADAS (country inns) so typical for Northern Spain and reach the scenic LIÉBANA valley, for centuries isolated from the outside world. It is here that we hear about the legacy of the BEATUS OF LIÉBANA, an 8th century monk who preached and sought solitude here. Most known for his COMMENTARY ON THE APOCALYPSE dated 776, his scripts were circulated in monasteries throughout Northern Spain in the Middle Ages, the best preserved copy of which may be found in the Pyrenees in the town of La Seu d'Urgell. Not surprising that the Beatus was inspired in his writing by the spectacular scenery and incomparable sense of quiet, peace and solitude here in the Picos de Europa.

The largest community of the Picos is the small town of POTES, population 1500, located in the Liébana Valley at the confluence of the Deva and Quiviesa rivers. The main industry here is tourism associated with mountain climbing and moderate skiing in the Picos de Europa. Numerous shops beckon visitors to come inside and admire the vast selection of mountain produce, ORUJO and handcraften wooded articles. Hiking sticks, pitch forks and wooden shoes rank among the favorite souvenirs here. In summer time, a vast number of outdoor cafes near the landmark TORRE DE INFANTADO are equally tempting. 

From Potes we have several scenic options to continue our exploration of the Cantabrian Range. We can continue for another 15 miles towards the source of the DEVA river at Fuente Dé, where we find the famous TELEFÉRICO cable car to take us within less than 10 minutes to an elevation of 1800 meters (6000 feet) for some spectacular scenic views. 

Alternatively we may choose to continue southbound along the mountain pass of PUERTO SAN GLORIO, which rising to an elevation of almost 1600 meters (5500 feet) offers spectacular views of the Picos area, particularly at the scenic MIRADOR DEL CORZO before descending onto the much more arid high plains of Castilla-León and the nearby town of Riaño.

Most visitors to Las Vegas flock to Sin City for the glitz & glamor of the Casinos and the neon lights of the Las Vegas Strip. Yet few may know that Southern Nevada also constitutes the perfect gateway for scenic excursions in both directions, either North towards Zion, Bryce Canyon or other National Parks in Utah or Southwest towards the beautiful Mojave desert shared by both Nevada and California. On previous occasions, Euroquest Sidetracks has touched on highlights and hidden treasures of the Mojave, including China Ranch, Kingston Peak or the bizare cave church of the "Christ of the Andes". Over 2 years ago, we previously presented an article entitled "Escapes in the East Mojave National Preserve" featuring a general outline of the magnificent desert landscape on a drive between Las vegas and Palm Springs, California. This gem of a desert secret, however, merits a more detailed account of the very highlights that make it so special: the fields of Joshua Tree Cacti near CIMA, California and the vast sand dunes of KELSO. Both also constitute perfect venues for timeless long hiking adventures through surreal desert scenery of unsurpassed beauty.

Upon leaving behind the Nevada-California state border on I-15 at Primm, we initially ascend and then descend the Mountain Pass and then reach an exit for "CIMA, California", which we take and subsequently turn left onto CIMA Road. Within a mile already the scenery changes abruptly from dull freeway desert to lush green fields of Joshua Tree Cacti. We witness first-hand some of the miracles of fauna and flora of the Mojave desert, so much drier and cooler and at a much higher altitude than the nearby Sonoran Desert of Arizona. That´s why Saguaro cacti cannot be found here, but instead this is among the only habitats for the unique JOSHUA TREE cactus. Where climatic conditions are ideal, such as in certain parts of the East Mojave Preserve, these cactus trees truly prosper and may reach up to 15-20 meter in height (or up to 50-60 feet). All along Cima Road within close proximity to Interstate I-15 numerous scenic points invite visitors to stop, walk and explore the majestic fields of Joshua Tree cacti. The area here also lends itself towards extensive hikes along some of the nearby trails, among the most beautiful of which ranks the 3-mile TEUTONIA PEAK TRAIL featuring the nearby Cima Dome & Teutonia Silver Mine. Continuing further South on Cima Road we also admire the color of the asphalt. Depending on the position of the sun the road surface may appear red or black - a colorful juxtaposition to the lush green of the Joshua Trees & the deep blue of the desert sky.

We then reach Cima, California - a ghost town that has been left in ruins. Since our last post 2 years ago, even the post office sign announcing "CIMA CALIFORNIA, 92323" has been taken down. Few signs of human life are left in this desert outpost, although judging by the sight of occasional trailers here a small number of temporary residents seem to be attracted by the seclusion, quiet and remoteness of the Cima area in addition to its spectacular scenic beauty. Turning right on the "Kelso Cima Road" Highway we join the famous former Route 66 and follow along the rail road tracks for a good 20 miles - often colorful cargo trains either stand still here waiting for their continuing journey or slowly make their journey bound for urban areas of Southern California. 

The next stop is Kelso, California. Unlike Cima, this small community has undergone a resurgence in recent years since the renovation and restoration of its historic railroad station. Ever since its inception in 1862, UNION PACIFIC needed a base in the Southwest desert & upon construction & acquisition of the so-called "Salt Lake" train route, the first depot in Kelso was built in 1905 with the edifice in its present form dating from 1924. Upon suspension of regular train service in this area in 1985, Union Pacific intended to raze the building, but concerned citizens helped save the depot from demolition and it was subsequently restored and opened to the public in 2005. Nowadays the station building marks the perfect stopover for visitors in the East Mojave Preserve featuring a free-of-charge museum, restrooms and a diner-style restaurant. 

From the Kelso train depot it is only a short drive towards the vast desert dunes nearby, by far among the most spectacular sights in the East Mojave Preserve. An unpaved sandy trail leads from the highway about 3 miles to a parking area with garbage and restroom facilites - the ideal point of departure for a lengthy hike along the vast and moving slopes of the Kelso dunes. Other websites have also commented on the beauty of the Kelso Dunes for hiking & walking activities (see http://www.birdandhike.com/Hike/MOJA/Kelso_Dunes/_Kelso_Dunes.htm for further details). Here we find rare fauna and flora of the Mojave desert including bunchgrasses, Creosote Bush and White Bursage. Throughout the sand dunes, animal trails may be found, many of which created by either lizards, kangoroo rats or occasionally by Sidewinders, a kind of rattlesnake, innocent if left alone. 

About 30 minutes are enough to reach the lower slopes for an initial scenic view of the surrounding vast desert landscape. Yet it is advised to spend several hours here & start quite early in the day to take full advantage of the splendid sense of space, solitude & peace this desert gem has to offer. From the higher slopes at about 480 feet we enjoy splendid views over the entire area known as the DEVIL`S PLAYGROUND, a truly unforgettable & timeless experience. Although the distance covered may amount to only 1.5 miles each way, the total hike of about 3 miles is nonetheless strenuous due to the difficult nature of walking at a steady pace on sandy surface. Following our memorable hiking adventure at the Kelso dunes, we may either resume our drive towards the greater Palm Springs area or return towards Las Vegas the same way we came, with a possible alternative route via Morning Star Mine Road in Cima leading us back towards the Nevada border and the Nipton Road exit at Interstate I-15. This last alternative return route equally offers splendid views of fields after fields of Joshua Tree Cacti attesting to the unsurpassed scenic beauty of this particular stretch of the Mojave Desert.

Many visitors local and foreign alike enjoy the sunny desert climate of Palm Springs, California. Year-round sunshine and mild temperatures in the winter months attract snowbirds or foreign tourists from colder climes, while local visitors from the large California metro areas, such as Los Angeles or San Diego, tend to flock to the Coachella Valley of Palm Springs to get away from urban gridlock & enjoy a few quiet days in the sun. Most tend to spend time, however, along the main throughways of Palm Canyon Drive & Indian Canyon Drive downtown or prefer to lounge by the pool in the sun. Major outdoor attractions of greater Palm Springs also include a tramway ascending 3000 ft. above the city with splendid scenic views and numerous hiking possibilities, or a visit to the nearby Indian Canyon & Taquitz Canyon Reservations. The latter offer breathtaking natural habitats, yet are not free of charge & often tend to be crowded. The tramway too attracts huge crowds filling numerous parking lots nearby with visitors being shipped off in droves up the tramway for their scenic ride. 

To those of us enjoying a genuine break from mass tourism, the greater Palm Springs area equally has many attractions in store. They range from thermal pools in nearby Desert Hot Springs to day excursions to nature preserves in the area, such as Joshua Tree National Park to the North. For shorter getaways from crowds, numerous local hiking opportunites beckon, among the most secluded of which we find the trails inside the Coachella Valley Preserve just North of Palm Springs in the small community of Thousand Palms. To reach this nature preserve, we leave Palm Springs on any of the major access roads, such as Gene Autry Trail, join I-10 Eastbound & leave the freeway at Thousand Palms. From here a small highway links the circular road around the Northern half of the Greater Palm Springs, Cathedral City & Indio Metro area. 

About two thirds up on that link road, we find an attractive grove of date palms with the Visitors´center of the 1000 Palms Canyon in the Coachella Valley Preserve. The visitors´center is located in a small wooden service building, which was previously part of a Date Palm Ranch. Numerous hiking trails radiate in various directions from here, the easiest and shortest of which is the 1.4 mile McCullum trail. For those with limited time, such short desert walks offer a short yet true respite from the hustle and bustle of city life nearby and a worthwhile introduction to the area´s local fauna & flora.

Just outside the visitors´center many longer trails originate, which serve as an ideal scenic excursion to nearby desert attractions. Most of which require crossing the highway & continuing into barren desert landscape on the other side. A map post outlines trails of various length & level of difficulty, including the Indian, Horseshoe, Pushawalla & Hidden Palm Oases trails. Whereas the Hidden Palm Oases trail is located at lower altitude & is thus suitable even for families with children, the Horseshoe & Pushawalla trail gradually ascends the nearby desert mountains, and once passing a flight of steep stairs, continuously loops from one mountain top to the next along the so-called "BEE ROCK MESA", offering splendid scenic views of the Greater Coachella Valley and the cities of Palm Springs and Palm Desert below. 

Most of these trails take several hours to complete and should be undertaken earlier in the day to avoid return hikes in the dark. Plenty of water supplies are also advised, particularly during the scorching hot summer months. Almost all the trails attract relatively few visitors, many of which unaware of the attractive desert palm groves awaiting them after longer hikes through barren landscape. Therefore as a true break from mainstream tourism and a journey towards solitude, peace & quiet, the Coachella Valley Preserve and 1000 Palms Canyon constitutes the perfect getaway & Treasure of the beaten track destination in the desert areas of Southern california.

 

Think Carnival and most will say Rio de Janeiro. Yet there are numerous other places in the world famous for their Carnival celebrations ranging from Mardi Gras in New Orleans to Carnival in Venice or the fiestas surrounding Carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife on the Canary Islands. Few may think of Mexico as a carnival destination, even less so since the rise of one-sided media reporting on the ongoing drug war and its potential dangers for visitors. Within Mexico, the carnival in Veracruz is probably the best known and most ebullient, but there are other well-known Carnival hotspots in Mexico including Mazatlán, Sinaloa and La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur. 

Located thousands of miles away from the more populous areas of Mexico on the main land, the South of the Baja Peninsula is truly a far cry away from many of the country´s ongoing woes, including the power struggles between drug cartels near the U.S. border. Southern Baja´s capital city, La PAZ,  is a charming, picturesque community of about 200 ooo inhabitants and captures the peace & quiet of this remote part of the world - except may be during the Carnival season. Then uncountable stands are erected alongside La Paz´famous MALECÓN (seaside promenade) with a main stage in the very center at the crossing of the Malecón and La Paz´ main street "16 de Septiembre". The stage functions as a focal point during the city´s carnival celebrations featuring the nightly appearance of well-known Mexican celebrities throughout the festive period. The carnival frenzy then extends along both sides of the Malecón for up to 5 blocks and later at night continues in La Paz´numerous clubs including the Jungle and the alternative The Dome.

Visitors will be thrilled to find out that La Paz boasts great hotels at a reasonable price located close to the heart of carnival madness. Among the best values in town we find the BAJA SOUTH hotel (550 MXP for a double room) conveniently located right behind the bus terminal and 1 block away from the Malecón. Here nights won´t be too quiet however, with all the carnival music and partying nearby. A quieter alternative would be the Hotel Del Ángel on C. Revolución (400/600 MXP per room) within immediate surroundings to the city´s attractive Cathedral CATEDRAL dE LA PAZ & the Centro de Artes y Cultura of Baja California Sur. Here we also find our favorite breakfast, brunch and lunch hangout, CAFÉ CORAZÓN serving scrumtious Mexican specialties at very competitive prices. Our other perennial favorite, LA BOHèME, located on C. Esquerro downtown, boasts a magnificent inner courtyard with lush vegetation. Run for decades by a string of French owners, La Bohème also serves esquisite food but at much more elevated prices. The atmosphere alone, however, is worth a visit. Lovers of seafood will equally be delighted by La Paz´ vast selection of sea food eateries, the most famous of which, EL BISMARKCITO is located right along the Malecón. A less expensive and more local alternative is Mc Fish on C. Morelos between Revolución & Madero featuring delicious seafood dishes - their seafood soup and shrimp burgers are among the best in town. Also see "Eat like a Paceño", http://visit-lapaz.com/?p=335, for further recommendations.

Yet La Paz also boasts breathtaking surroundings. Heading towards the port of PICHILINGUE, we pass several newly developed beach resorts, including the prestigious golf course of the recently built COSTABAJA property. Further afield, a true highlight awaits with the bay of BALANDRA beach, among the most picturesque and pristine in the entire Baja pensinsula. Yet caution is advised when bathing at this beach as the Bay is full of shellfish and their sting may be quite painful and potentially fatal. Finally La Paz also serves as the ideal gateway for destinations further afield such as Constitución and Loreto towards the North or the East Cape of Baja towards the South. An ideal destination to retire or just to get away from civilization for a while, Southern Baja´s capital truly enchants visitors with its scenic beauty and genuine local Baja culture and hospitality.

When talking about volcano islands, most may think of Iceland or Hawaii - many may not know that Lanzarote, one of the Canary Islands in the Atlantic off the coast of Africa, has much more to offer than package deal resorts. While beaches may be more bountiful on other islands of the Canaries, Lanzarote boasts the most unique volcanic landscape and the most harmonious architecture. It was local artist´s César Manrique´s legacy that public building ordinances were changed to require all houses on the island to remain white and low-rise, which with few exceptions has been carefully observed since his passing. While most visitors to Lanzarote tend to stay in the main tourist resort of Puerto del Carmen, the island has much more remote and unspoilt scenery to offer in its Northern half. Here we find the high mountain range of the RISCO DE FAMARA with spectacular views over the Atlantic ocean and the nearby island of LA GRACIOSA. It is here, in the village of YÉ, that we start our hiking exploration of sun, solitude and silence in these lands of lava and white homes.

It is advisable to start the day early - preferably by 9am to maximize the amounts of time for hiking and rest. Since the difference in altitude to be covered ranges around 800 meters, ample time should be allocated particularly for the return ascent of the Famara range, the most strenuous part of our hiking adventure. As we leave behind the village of Yé en route to Guinate, a turn-off on the right leads on a narrow paved road towards the Mirador del Río. As we proceed on that small road for about 300 yards, a cobble-stone driveway and parking lot appear to our left. It is well advised to take along all personal belongings from the car, as car break-ins are not uncommon here. A clearly marked path leads from here towards a panoramic lookout point, from where splendid views may be enjoyed over the Famara Range, Atlantic Ocean and the island of La Graciosa. Yet this marks also the beginning of a small, narrow hiking trail, which cuts into the lava land and curves down towards the coastline. Down below in the valley underneath the Famara Range, the path then splits into various directions, including a small trail that leads towards the right and on to the unspoilt shores of the PLAYA DEL RISCO, our chosen destination.

Caution is advised during both the descent and ascent of the Famara Range, as the surface of these volcanic soils may be highly slippery. Regular curves guarantee frequent possibilities to pause and rest joints and legs while enjoying magnificent vistas of the surrounding coastline. We also pass several power line poles that bring electricity to these remote corners of Lanzarote and on to La Graciosa, the capital village of which, CALETA DEL SEBO, may be seen shining below with is marvellously white-washed houses. The descent takes about 40 minutes depending on speed and frequency of breaks until we reach the turn-off point, from which several trails radiate left, right or immediately to the coast. We turn right and continue through semi-arid vegetation featuring shrubs and bushes until we pass over a range of rocks to then enjoy the full view of one of Lanzarote´s most unique, isolated and unspoilt beaches, the PLAYA DEL RISCO. 

For a huge beach of its extension and size, it is virtually deserted, even more so if our hiking adventure is undertaken earlier in the day. On very rare occasions, visitors may be seen arriving by water taxi, which may be an option for physically challenged visitors that may not be able to do the hike and yet would like to see the beauty of this remote beach. For the water taxi option, visitors would first take the ship from the Northernmost community of ORZOLA to the island of La Graciosa. From there, water taxis may be taken from the island´s capital Caleta del Sebo over towards the PLAYA DEL RISCO. This choice may also come in handy for those wishing to camp on the beach overnight in the summer and would not like to carry all camping supplies along the slippery strenuous hiking route.

 Subject to tidal moves, the sands of PLAYA DEL RISCO appear and vanish with the tides, often offering visitors uniquely picturesque opportunities for photography, meditation and self-awareness. For that reason, above hike may best be undertaken quite early in the day to maximize the downtime along the PLAYA DEL RISCO. We also suggest a return departure no later than 330/4pm to allocate ample time for what is the most strenuous part of our hiking day, the return ascent to the village of YÉ. It is also possible to stroll along the immediate coastline to discover other remote inlays, bays and small beaches unspoilt by tourism and to join one of the other side trails returning to the turn-off point culminating in the main path leading back up the Famara Range. Frequent pauses are strongly advised, as even physically able individuals may have a challenging time with the return ascent covering an altitude difference of 800 meters. As we return to the balcony overlooking the ocean and La Graciosa, about 1-1.5 hours have passed since our departure from the beach and we then return to civilization physically tired from the hike but mentally and spiritually renewed by the magnificent experience of visiting one of the most remote and scenic corners of Lanzarote´s Lava Lands.

Most visitors to Jordan are told that the single-most tourist destination for them should be Petra. In deed, no visit to Jordan would ever be complete without admiring the ancient site that is Petra, a city carved entirely into the rocks by the Nabataeans, but it ranks among the most exploited sites of Jordan. Locals, by contrast, tend to flock elsewhere, and the vast desert of Wadi Rum may rank among their favorite getaways. Even Queen Rania of Jordan celebrated her 40th birthday in September 2011 out here in the Wadi Rum, a birthday bash much criticized as overly excessive by most Jordanians (see http://www.maryannsieghart.com/uncategorized/queen-rania-of-jordan-the-new-ma... for further details). For average visitors both foreign and local, a Wadi Rum getaway usually starts at the Visitor Center, and it was here that our adventures with the local Bedouins began.

As soon as visitors descend from their cars to stop at the Visitor Center, they are preyed upon by countless locals posing as "guides" and offering 4-wheel excursions of various length to uninitiated tourists. The prospects sound tempting and the potential beauty of the desert may make many book such an excursion right away - nonetheless, the insistence and shameful omni-presence of these local guide "vultures" made us reconsider - even our local taxi driver encouraged us to seek alternatives to our Wadi Rum visit, citing the "bad aura" of these alleged "Bedouins" posing as local guides. We therefore decided to simply pay the 5 Jordanian Dinars entrance fee per person and make our way to Wadi Rum village with our own vehicle. There we stopped for a while for pictures & drinks until we were approached again by locals there but in rather more subdued and moderate ways. Reconsidering our options we then decided upon a 2 hour excursion by 4-wheel drive & to this end deliberately approached a trustworthy looking Bedouin guide driving by in his new truck.

During our 2-hour excursion through the vast Wadi Rum desert we learned from our local guide that the "vultures" at the visitor center are not all actual Bedouins. Many hail from the nearby village of Disi, others from further away and their mission is to snatch away as much business as possible from the local Bedouins of Wadi Rum village. To our own local guide´s distress, many of these insistent individuals at the Visitor Center give local Bedouins a bad name and leave an unfavorable impression with many visitors. Most of the local Bedouins from Wadi Rum village, by contrast, are highly committed to showing visitors their true hospitality along with the scenic beauty of the vast desert landscape. In deed, we felt pleasantly welcomed throughout and a bit like Peter o´Toole in the 1962 movie Lawrence of Arabia, which was filmed in different settings of the Wadi Rum desert. We explored several Bedouin camps and learned that most local Jordanians book 1 or 2 night getaways to spend the night at these camps preferably during warmer times of year, since in winter it may get unpleasantly cold at night here.

We set out on our explorations close to Wadi Rum village at the famous Nabataean Temple, not quite as overwhelming as the Nabataean´s architectural legacy in Petra but nonetheless impressive. Driving out into the open desert from here we learn that it is not monuments that matter in the Wadi Rum but the scenic beauty of the desert landscape. We pass several imposing rock formations and sand dune sites and a few scenic lookout points particularly beautiful for enjoying desert sunsets. We also stop for 30 minutes at nearby Burrah Canyon, where we walk between narrow rocks and feel a bit like the school girls in Peter Weir´s 1976 Australian movie "Picnic at Hanging Rock". In fact, with every passing of 15 minutes or so, the colors of the desert rocks change in nuance according to the sun´s respective position. As we return to Wadi Rum village following our 2-hour excursion by 4-wheel drive we bask in the beauty of the Wadi Rum experience, determined to come back soon for longer, may be for a weekend camp and well aware of the fact that certainly not all Bedouins are the same out here at Wadi Rum in Southeastern Jordan.

 

 

Visitors to Jordan are usually told that this is among the most tourist-friendly and fascinating destinations in the Middle East but not necessarily a good choice for those on a budget. Amman has been ranked among the priciest capital cities in the region, and a week or two at leisure and comfort in Jordan can easily ruin your bank account. Many budget guide books therefore recommend covering the highlights of Jordan like Petra and the Dead Sea in as little time as possible and then to swiftly move on to more affordable destinations. For a local perspective on life in Jordan, however, it may be worthwhile to linger on a bit longer in the fascinating capital Amman despite its high prices and to seek local budget alternatives in order to keep expenses low and cultural learning high during an enriching sojourn here. 

A bustling metropolis of 2 million people, Amman is a city caught between tradition and modernity and a place of hope for so many who come to Jordan to seek refuge from their troubled lives in neighboring countries. Among the 6 million Jordanians, only 40% are of true Jordanian descent mostly derived from tribal groups in the North and South of this quite artificial and arbitrary construct of a country, recently created only in the early 20th century. The majority 60% of Jordanians are of Palestinian origin and have settled here in hopes of better and more peaceful lives. Yet modern-day Jordan is a melting pot of numerous groups of immigrants mostly from troubled neighboring countries such as Syria, Iraq or even Libya, whose many residents have been escaping civil war there by way of Egypt. To all of them, King Abdullah´s modestly reformed state constitutes a beacon of hope in what is otherwise a rather grim and troubled geo-political landscape in the Middle East.

Most sights in central Amman may be covered by foot along the 2 most central hills of the city. Amman was originally built on 7 hills although with its surrounding suburbs it covers more than 19 hills nowadays. In central Amman we find the tourist highlights including the Al-Hussaini Mosque and several arqueological sites, while in nearby Jebel Amman we may explore beautiful villas dating back to the British colonial period. The modern Mosque was only completed in the 1980s and holds ample space for 3000 worshippers - across the street we find an Anglican and further down a Greek-Orthodox church built in the spirit of religious tolerance and diversity here. There is a 5% Christian minority living peacefully here in Jordan as well. Many of these buildings from the 1980s are already in need for some restoration due to water leaks and damage casting doubt on the structural integrity of their design and construction.

Towering between Downtown Amman and the bustling residential district of Jebel Al-Hussein we find the citadel Jebel Al-Qalaa with important relics of antiquity including the 2nd century a.d. HERCULES TEMPLE and the impressive entry hall of the 7th century Omayade Palace. From here we enjoy sweeping views over central Amman - particularly picturesque at dusk or dawn covering the rather uniform white and beige stones of Amman´s buildings into a pretty pinkish glow. Not far from the citadel in downtown Amman, we also admire the 2nd century Roman Amphitheater on the Jebel Al-Taj with room for 6000 spectators and regular concert events in the summer months. Included in the 2JD admission to the theater is the entrance to the adjacent Museum of Folklore and Ethnography.

In order to savor all of Amman old and new, however, transportation around town becomes necessary and is most easily done by way of the many inexpensive yellow taxis. Starting at a low 0.25JD base rate - almost anywhere within central Amman is rarely more than a 2 JD cab ride away making this by far the most convenient and reliable form of transportation. It allows us to disover all of the 8 modern circles around which the city has been built including the more upscale neighborhood of Shmeisani and Abdoun just North of the 4th circle, or the modern commercial areas around the 6th and 7th circle. Here gigantic shopping palaces such as MECCA MALL and CITY MALL attest to Amman´s commitment to modernity and reform while holding on to Moslem tradition and values. Nowhere may this commitment and dialectic be felt more tangibly, however, than in the residential neighborhood of JaBaL AL-HUSSEIN where local Amman may be savored in its purest form. Numerous boutiques and small enterprises line the streets of this recently refurbished district, among the only one in town with wide even sidewalks. From the 430am morning prayer call of the nearby modern neighborhood Mosque to the numerous Humus and Falafel shops along its main street, Jabal Al-Hussein invites us to explore a true slice of Amman present and past in ways only a local could otherwise.

 

 

For visitors to Gran Canaria who prefer local alternatives to the mass-tourist resorts around Maspalomas in the South, the capital city of Las Palmas constitutes a perfect gateway for exploring treasures off the beaten track in the island´s center and north. From here we have previously set out to discover the Canarian Rum city of ARUCAS as well as the famous Sunday market of VEGA DE SAN MATEO. This time, we will continue to the far North of Gran canaria to explore its magnificent coastline featuring several prominent coastal communities including PUERTO DE LAS NIEVES and SARDINA.

What used to be rather poor fishing villages in the past have lately seen a significant influx of investment and visitors both local and foreign alike. Puerto de las Nieves, part of the city of AGAETE, in particular has undergone a true renaissance in recent years and nowadays boasts a pristine local Canarian ambience along its seaside promenade "PASEO DE LOS POETAS". Here we find colorful fishermen houses perched together on narrow cliffs, a small harbor full of small colorful fishing vessels, seafood restaurants, craft shops and galleries. In the distance on a clear day we may see the snow-capped peak of Mount Teide on Tenerife, which gave the name Puerto de las Nieves to the community.

Around the main square we find a small chapel featuring the treasure of a 16th century triptych, a Flemish piece of artwork in three parts by Joos Van Cleve depicting the Virgin and Child and carried to AGAETE Parish Church during the annual Fiesta de la Rama. Just past the attractive dark-sanded beach area, we find the DEDO DE DIOS (God´s Finger), a 30 meter pinnacle of basalt rock in front of the cliffs topped by the pine trees of PINAR DE TAMADABA. While the pinnacle was damaged during a recent tropical storm in 2005, it still is a remarkable sight and great photo stop.

After enjoying some tasty local CALDO DE PESCADO fish soup in one of the excellent eateries around the port, we continue our exploration of GRan canaria´s North towards the Lighthouse of SARDINA and the community of the same name. Sardina still ranks among the best kept secrets of the island´s fishing villages. An ideal destination for those seeking great local seafood dishes along with peace and tranquility, Sardina is among the most authentic of communities along the coast here. 

Leaving Galdar along local highway GC-202, we pass miles of white tents under which 6 types of bananas are cultivated before reaching Sardina itself. Directly by the port we find the local delicatessen restaurant LA FRAGATA specializing in seafood at reasonable prices. As of late, the coastal promenade of SARDINA has seen an influx of DIVERS on weekends who have discovered the waters around SARDINA as ideal diving territory. While locals are not too happy about the new arrivals, who tend to spend most of their time in the water rather than helping the local economy, the local attraction of diving in and around SARDINA has added publicity to this picturesque fishing village. Exploring the Northern Coastline of Gran Canaria allows visitors to savor a true piece of local Canarian living and culture - a far cry away from the sand beach and sea routine of package-deal tourists in the South.

In yet another "Treasures off the Beaten Track" contribution on Gran canaria, we shall continue to draw attention away from the mass tourist resorts of the South and offer alternative trajectories to visitors of Gran canaria. As on previous occasions, we shall focus on the island´s capital LAS PALMAS as a gateway and outline several itineraries in the North and Center of Gran Canaria that allow a more insider perspective of local culture and traditions. This holds particularly true to venues frequented by locals and visitors alike, where the constructive dialogue between both leads to greater cultural awareness and a better understanding of the Cultural Other - the Sunday Market Day in Vega de San Mateo is a perfect example of just that.

To this end, it may be a great idea to get up relatively early on a Sunday and combine a visit to the Market in Vega de San Mateo with a hiking excursion around the island's mountainous center. Numerous small highways veer uphill from the coast towards the highest peak of Gran canaria called PICOS DE LAS NIEVES at almost 2000m (or 7000 ft). A good starting point may be the small community of INGENIO not far from the island's airport. From there, a well-paved highway leads towards great panorama viewpoints of Gran Canaria's Eastern coastline and then enters a stunning area of Basalt rocks of volcanic origin as well as of radical change of climate and vegetation. Whereas many parts of Gran Canaria may remain sunny, it can be overcast and hazy here with considerably lower temperatures and lush vegetation. Here we find mostly Canarian pine introduced to these mountains in the 1950s. On a clear sunny day, it is possible to look from Pico de las Nieves all the way over to Tenerife's Mount Teide (3700m), along with La Palma's Roque de los Muchachos (2500m) the only higher peaks in the entire Canarian archipielago. Much of this mountainous area of Gran canaria's center is nowadays part of a military exercise area but a plateau at the top of Picos de las Nieves is open to the public offering stunning views of the surrounding coastline and the adjacent island of Tenerife. Particularly scenic during a short hike around the mountain peak is the nearby ROQUE NUBLO, a stunning monolith standing out as the island's second highest elevation at 1800 meters (6500 ft).

Following our hike at the very peak of Picos de las Nieves, we then must follow several curvy smaller highways through pine forests and volcanic rock formations interspersed with cacti and gradually, as traffic increases, we descend towards the North/Northeast and reach the community of VEGA DE SAN MATEO With a population of 7500 inhabitants. The local economy here is still predominantly based on agriculture and farming rather than on tourism -and San Mateo's famous Sunday market remains a focal point of attraction to locals and visitors alike. In fact, many locals from the island's capital Las Palmas make their weekly pilgrimage to San Mateo to buy their week's supplies of groceries here - mostly fresh fruit, vegetables and regional culinary specialties. The high quality of the produce here at reasonable prices makes for good value for money and thus continues to attract local vendors and buyers alike. As for tourists, many come from the island's South by way of organized bus excursions to witness the local flair or San Mateo with its authentic handicrafts and arts.

Yet Vega de San Mateo has far more to offer than just its weekly Sunday market. Highly worthwhile and recommendable would be a visit to the local museum MUSEO ETNOLOGICO LA CANTONERA. Located inside a 300-year old farmhouse, the museum offers a genuine glimpse at Canarian life throughout history including farming equipment, ceramics and furniture items. Nearby we also find the local parish church with a statue of the community's patron saint St. Matthew from the 17th century. After visiting the market, museum and church, several worthwhile restaurants offer great food at reasonable prices including the local FELIZ DIA Chinese restaurant or the DULCERÍA San Mateo offering local pastries and specialty dishes. Also popular with both locals and visitors is the nearby Restaurante La Veguetilla about 2 blocks away from the buzzing activity of the Sunday market. As we return to Las Palmas at the end of our day in the mountains, we may bask in the assurance to have witnessed a very distinct slice of life on the Canarý islands far away from the sun and beach resorts of the island's over-developed coastline. 

 

In yet another edition of BEYOND THE BEACH, we would like to discover outdoor and hiking opportunities in and around Alicante. Several non-profit groups are dedicated to organizing and executing hiking excursions in the area on a weekly or bi-weekly basis, including Fartets Senderismo Montaña (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000862676792&sk=info). The regional government of the Comunitat Valenciana and local tourist authorities have even launched another website dedicated to the increasingly popular hiking acivitiy in the Levante region with more information available on www.senderosdealicante.com. Within barely 30 minutes inland from the coast, plentiful hiking routes become available to visitors, many of which yet undiscovered or barely frequented by area locals. It almost seems like leaving the overdeveloped coastal areas around Santa Pola or Benidorm is the safest and most scenic way to avoid mass tourism, seek solitude and soak up the local culture and scenic charm of Alicante Province.

Among the most accessible and beautiful of local hiking areas ranks the mountain range of San Quetano (San Cayetano) within 20 minutes by car from central Alicante and just outside the UNESCO world-heritage city of Elche. Near the industrial suburb of Crevillente, where ample parking space is available just outside factories empty over the weekend, we gather with other hiking enthusiasts to consolidate cars, since parking further up in the mountain may pose to be challenging. We then proceed from Crevillente along small highways and well-maintained dirt roads to the mountain area of San Quaetano about 5-10 miles Northwest of Crevillente near the villages of San Pascual and Serralba. At the top of the mountain road just before ELS ANOUERS, as far as regular cars are allowed to drive to, we find limited parking space and a picnic area with tables, running water and bathroom facilities (Sant Gaita). From here numerous trails branch off in all directions, among the most popular the 3-4 hour roundtrip hiking trail through the SERRA MITJANA to the peak of EL PICATXO at about 850m above sea level.

Hiking trails in Central Spain are easy to follow as their trayectory is usually marked clearly with yellow and white bars at strategic points along the way including tree stumps, forks in the road or larger rocks. The trail to EL PICATXO initially is well paved and supported occasionally by hand rails and wooden steps but then increasingly becomes narrower and continues as a rather slippery gravel trail, which may pose a falling hazard particularly during the descent back to the parking area. Increasingly, views open up towards Elche, Crevillente and local villages such as EL BAJÓN and HONDÓN DE LOS FRAILES. We also repeatedly see the water reservoir of EMBALSE DE DON FRANCISCO MIRA CANOVAS immediately to the North.

The most scenic and rewarding route to EL PICATXO is circular, best approached through and from the SERRA MITJANA and offers gradual ascents and descents, except for a short stretch towards the very peak at 850m, where only one trail leads to in either direction and hikers may congregate in larger numbers to rest, repose or unite for the last leg of the ascent to the top. Here, at a promontary jutting out at 850m, we may enjoy sweeping views of the SIERRA DE CREVILLENTE and the entire Southern Half of Alicante Province, on the very border to Murcia including coastal areas such as Santa Pola, and the UNESCO world-heritage palmgroves of ELCHE and sometimes as far away as the castillo de Santa Barbara in Alicante. The return to the parking and picnic area Sant Gaita is needless to say much faster than the ascent and may take anywhere from 25 to 45 minutes depending on the exact routing and hiking speed. Particular caution may be advised, however, on the gravel trails in the mid-section of La Mitjana in the San Quaetano mountains, as they tend to be slippery irrespective of the quality of hiking boots used.

For planning and executing a hiking adventure in the area, numerous tools are available to visitors, including the website www.senderosdealicante.com mentioned above, but also www.wikiloc.com dedicated to uploading and offering a comprehensive map database in gpx form submitted by members. To this end, modern smartphones offer additional applications to help facilitate, execute and document hiking routes, including ORUXMAPS available for both Apple and Android phones. Recorded routes in GPX format may then be displayed inside ORUXMAPS´' own program or can be exported to MY TRACKS, which works in unison with Google Maps. A gpx route display of above hiking route to EL PICATXO in the SIERRA DE CREVILLENTE may be found at http://en.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=631609.